Sunday, June 28, 2015

On copper

In a time of major mining operations and their huge impact on the country's economic situation and political climate, it is unsurprising that metals mean a lot to modern Mongolia.

Copper, despite being less flashy than gold and less notorious than uranium, historically makes up a significant component of Mongolia's mining operations.  The Erdenet Mining Company began extracting copper in the 1970s in Orkhon Province.  The second largest city in Mongolia - Erdenet - was founded by the company as a result of the large-scale copper-mining industry.

The Oyu Tolgoi (OT) mine in Umnugovi Province, perhaps the defining economic undertaking of the 21st century in Mongolia, primarily produces copper.  In 2015, it is impossible to overstate the significance of Oyu Tolgoi to Mongolian society.  Since 2001, the rocky relationship between the various Mongolian governments and international mining groups that share stakes in the mine has influenced the national economy, Mongolia's international reputation as a free and law-abiding society (I am alluding to the recent case of foreign mining executives held in Mongolia in a tax-evasion case.  Three men were forbidden from leaving Mongolia for several years, awaiting a trial where eventually they would be convicted and sentenced to 5 years in Mongolian prison.  However, shortly after the trial all three were pardoned by President Elbegdorj, following sharp criticism from the international business and human rights communities), the environment, and domestic development as a function of international investment and involvement.

Aside from the macro-scale significance of copper as a commodity, this metal is very much a part of Mongolian daily life.  Copper (zes) is ubiquitous in traditional households and jewelry.  The two most commons forms are the bowl (ayag) and the bracelet (buguivch).

As I mentioned in the Tsagaan Sar 2014 post, Badamkhatan egch, who hosted me on Shinii gurvan udur 2014, presented me with this gorgeous copper bowl:
A copper bowl, or zesnii ayag 

Copper bowls are common items in Mongolian homes.  I've seen them both in the capital and in the countryside.

Winter 2014: like a copper mirror


In addition to giving me the copper bowl, Badamkhatan egch filled it with ezgii, a home-made cooked dairy product that's quite delicious.

Wednesday, June 24, 2015

Calling all summer students and adventurers!

Ovoo worship site with khadag (photo: E. Platts, 2014)
This summer the Center for the Study of Eurasian Nomads (CSEN) is offering two educational field programs in Mongolia: the Southern Bulgan Province program and the Ar Janchivlan Valley & Khentii Province program.  While the application deadline for the Southern Bulgan Province program has already passed, the Ar Janchivlan Valley & Khentii Province program is accepting applications until July 15th!

Surveying a Bronze-Age khirigsuur complex en route to Baldan Bereeven monastery,
Khentii Province (photo: E. Platts, 2014)
The program is designed for students, enthusiasts, and adventurers who want a substantive introduction to Mongolia through field experiences and educational content (focused primarily on archaeology but including ethnography, religion, history, and a bit of Mongolian language) over a 10-day period.

Bronze-Age burial on the high slopes of the sacred peak, Bayan Tsogt (Ar Janchivlan Valley, Tuv Province) (photo: E. Hite 2015)
My Mongolian collaborator, Vanchigdash (Mongolian University of Science and Technology), and I will serve as field instructors, including participants as we conduct a bit of dissertation fieldwork in Ar Janchivlan Valley and leading our team through field research and educational settings in Khentii Province.

Tibetan inscription at the Rashaan Khad site in Khentii Province (photo: E. Platts, 2014)
As a real field team, we'll be living in rough conditions, traveling on bumpy back-country roads, and taking every opportunity to explore new sites, meet local people, and engage in once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

Fun and games near the Bayan River, Khentii Province (photo: E. Platts 2014)
CSEN welcomes applicants of all ages and backgrounds, although those under 18 must be accompanied by a parent or legal guardian, and prizes participants with willing spirits and open hearts above those with prior archaeological or field expedition experience.  The program is capped at 8 participants (not including staff and field instructors) to keep our team size manageable, our foot-print small, and our encounters friendly and personal.

Program map with key sites listed

You can find more information about the Ar Janchivlan Valley & Khentii Province program, including the application form and participant handbook, at the following sites:

The CSEN webpage: 
http://csen.org/Ar%20Janchivian%20Valley%20&%20Khentil%20Province/ArJanchivianValley&KhentilProvincendex.html

The program listing on the Archaeological Institute of America's Archaeological Fieldwork Online Bulletin:
http://www.archaeological.org/fieldwork/afob/19191

The CSEN Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/centerforthestudyofeurasiannomads?fref=nf


Vanchigdash surveys archaeological features in Ar Janchivlan Valley in early May (photo: E. Hite 2015)

Spread the word to friends, colleagues, and family who might want to get outside of their comfort zones this summer through an adventurous educational expedition.  We look forward to receiving your application and any questions at csen.field.programs@gmail.com !

Sunset in late summer along the Khurkh River (photo: E. Platts, 2014)

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Sprint from September to spring

A few choice moments from my time in Mongolia between the end of summer 2014 and springtime:

Lovely bouquet from two of my students celebrating the end of summer
First snow of the season in Ulaanbaatar: September 28th, 2014 :/

Bonfire and first sunrise of the new year in Bayankhangai

A major highlight of the winter was my dog-sledding trip in Terelj.  We raced along the frozen river pulled by eager, cuddly huskies, took a quick spin on a horse sleigh, rode horseback through snow drifts, and climbed through the winter forests over the rocky hills in one eventful day. Unfortunately, I forgot my camera.  Luckily for me, Emily S. had her camera on hand the entire time.
Our dogs getting hitched to the sleds: almost ready for some racing over the frozen river!

Eyes on the prize: almost ready to make that river run!